Sunday morning we headed out early to chew up a bunch of miles. Nothing too sexy today, just making time north in Spain before crossing into Portugal. We did much of the day on the highway, but the routing didn’t disappoint – we crossed the Sierra Morena mountains, and did end up on some smaller […]

Sabbath morning we awoke to a decent breakfast prepared by our British host, complete with baked beans and toast. Of course, we had to deal with the time change from Morocco to Spain, and so lost an hour. We had to choose between going to church and enjoying nature. Since we are well road-worn (and […]

How many times can you say that you’ve crossed borders between countries 3 times in one day, or that you’ve used 3 currencies in one day, or that you’ve spoken 5 different languages in one day? That was us today. After getting off the ferry that brought us from Tangier (Morocco) to Tarifa (Spain), we […]

Friday was an early morning for us, and it was a painful one, first because of the Moroccan bed. Now, of all the things you may have heard about Morocco, the Moroccan bed is probably not one of them. The food, the medina, the mint tea, the early morning calls to prayer, the beautiful scenery, […]

Thursday we left Chaouen with an ominously foreboding sky. Well, more like we were loading our bikes with a combination of dread and resignation – by the time we were loaded the rain had begun. As our Airbnb host had warned that once the rain starts, it can go all day long, we mounted our […]

It’s easy to forget that life continues while we are on this trip, and that the real world is still going on. Portugal is experiencing country-wide gasoline shortages as their truck drivers have gone on strike. Over 200 gas stations have already closed. We have to return the bikes in Portugal. Northern Portugal. This could […]

Tuesday we left Fes and headed north. Over the mountains. Again. To be fair, these were different mountains – the Rif Mountains. Still a great ride. Snaking roads curving endlessly up, down and around several mountains as we traversed the range, which wasn’t nearly as high or as cold as the High or Middle Atlas […]

We left El Jebha in the side view mirrors and eased on down the coastal highway, snaking along the coast in the Rif Mountains, best known for being the supplier of 80% of Europe’s hashish, until it was time to head south towards Chefchaouen. Along the way, we stopped at a national park that was […]

On Monday we decided to visit Volubilis, a truly ancient city. This site was occupied in one form or another from 200 BC to 1400 AD. Sitting at the edge of the Roman empire, the Triumphant Arch was built 1800 years ago, and it still stands! The city was fairly wealthy in part because it […]

We booked a cooking class on Sunday with a local family in the hopes of cracking the Moroccan cuisine mystery. The sun and temperature climbed high as we walked the 25 min from our Airbnb into a labyrinth of homes and streets. We found Yassine and his mom waiting for us, and got right to […]