Range anxiety
Yesterday I felt like a Tesla owner. We planned to ride from El Rosario de Arriba to Guerrero Negro (365 km). However, the best intel I had indicated that there are no gas stations along this stretch. My math tells me we can ride 320 km on a tank with a heavy throttle hand, and closer to 400 km if we go easy.
So, we set out for a slow ride (cue Foghat), taking it easy and keeping our speed to between 80-90 km/hr.
It seems as though from our first day into Mexico we have been riding either over, between or surrounded by mountains. Today was no different, except that for much of the day it felt like we were the only ones on the road. We’d see the occasional vehicle heading north, and every so often overtake a big rig struggling up a hill (or be overtaken by an SUV with no range anxiety).
We pulled into Cataviña 125 km down the road. There was a rumor that a Pemex gas station had just opened here, but this scanty info turned out not to be true. Oh, there’s a mostly constructed Pemex, but apparently it has been about to open for a long time now. There were however two enterprising
gasoline vendors on the side of the road, competing with one another to sell motorists fuel by the gallon from a collection of jerry cans. Although the fuel was about 50% more expensive than at a proper station, we were grateful to be able to purchase the fuel we needed.
Next to the almost completed Pemex was a convenience store. We parked beside Brian’s T7, and sat with him in the shade to swap tales from the road. Brian is from Tucson, riding in Baja for just a few days before heading back home. His plan was to get to San Ignacio, which was much farther down the road. After a few moments to rest and rehydrate, we were off, while Brian went to buy fuel. Of course, 10 minutes later, Brian had caught up to us and passed us with a wave before disappearing over the horizon before us.
Restaurant Melady in Punta Prieta was recommended to us, and so we stopped there for lunch. The employee we spoke with looked confused when I asked for something vegan. With there being almost no options (the beans had lard and the salad had cheese), I settled for a small plate of rice and French fries, while Angela had a couple of cornmeal muffins.
As we were dressing to depart, several trucks decaled with the Monster brand and pulling trailers arrived. A few of the drivers came over to say hello. They were the support crew for a Tecate-to-Cabo off-road motorcycling tour called “Rip to Cabo”. They were as efficient as an F1 pit crew. Not sure why they stopped (surely it wasn’t just to talk with us), but they were gone as quickly as they had pulled in.
Our concern for lack of fuel was unnecessary – we passed three more jerry can laden gas vendors spaced judiciously along the route before arriving at Guerrero Negro, just across the state line. We are now in Baja California Sur!