ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment

He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Your email address will not be published. Your email address will not be published. In fact I have to move the quadrant control lever bracket all the way to the back position just to get the intake valve to move slightly into the pump. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: 17). Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. "author": { We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. A mirror can be used to try and pinpoint where the leak is. Figured that out after I sent the last message. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. "publisher": { It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. Almost left this one out. It is critical. There has got to be a better way. I don't mind if they mark their territory with an occasional drip. Then, if you have a jig, adjust the linkage to specs. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. Enough to cause the lift issues? If necessary, make a new mark that corresponds to the correct level. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", There are two piston assemblies that should move at the same time, and in opposite directions. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. How does water get inside the sump? All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. I have pulled the pump and cleaned the pump cavity. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. I'll let you know how I do. Another question if I may. Free shipping for many products! I did take a look at it before I put it back together. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. . This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. "author": { NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts youll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . Dean Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. "@type": "Person", "@type": "ImageObject", I had a similar, though much less serious, crack in the ram arm on my 55 860. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. $32.95 . It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? We keep the brush down in the woods. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. Never plow, etc. After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. Contact Us First, it causes rust and corrosion. "width": 200, I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. Enough to cause the lift issues? The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. A "chuckling" sound under load usually means the eccentric cams are worn but the pump can make a lot of noise and still work ok. Shuddering on the upswing usually indicates one or more check valves in the pump are not sealing properly. Epoxy? You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. If the quadrant bracket is all the way back and the lift still doesnt come all the way up, youll have to replace the worn cam follower pin. Simple to make from the hardware store. Hi All- this is rookie question. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. Remove the top cover and place it bottom side up on the workbench. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. I'll send an e-mail to your site. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. )* Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. Make an honest estimate of the hours your tractor is used each week. Maybe not true. If the hydraulics dont go up at all, its likely that the ball socket is the problem (worn out or jumped out of place). It has a tendency to accumulate moisture from condensation inside the gear cases and the water collects in the bottom of the sump where it is drawn directly into the hydraulic pump. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. I can add very little to that procedure. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. Epoxy? Never plow, etc. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. When the pump is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. ", The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. Another question if I may. Change it. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a.

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